Category: Hardware


My H2100 headset just locked up on me for the first time. These are my daily drivers and I usually don’t like messing with stuff I need day in and day out if possible. Thankfully for me there is Youtube! Worked great! Few things to note:

  • The Ear muffs remove well by using the thumb from the inside gently lifting up out of the groove as the video shows. Be mindful of the thinner synthetic leather material as it seems to be the weakest point. Gently working around the unit works well and the material gives enough to get them on and off fairly easy but take your time to protect the materials life span.
  • I would recommend something along the lines of a thin guitar pick instead of the razor blade to remove the inner lining. Just have to get it started at one point, and then work your way around. It is held on with a tacky glue that once removed and the headphones are fixed, will aid well in making sure the lining will stay where it should just fine. My headset is about a year old and I would guess this glue should remain tacky for a few more years or so allowing for several more removals if needed. Once the glue is too old to be reused, I am sure I could clean the mounting surface easily and find a similar glue product to replace it with.
  • Really watch those cables when pulling the driver up. They are short and thin!
  • Also when pulling the 3 wire cable from the PCB inside to reset the device, pull on the plug, not the wires and ever so gently rock a bit to wiggle it free. A set of fine needle nose pliers or tweezers might be handy for bigger fingers.

I am having my first go at getting my son’s iPad setup with LAMP Words For Life  (LWFL) setup. It’s exciting thinking about how this may open up better communication between all of us. I will be posting little bits of info as I come across them and hopefully it will help others who may be digging for the same info I am. I will be updating each post topic as I work thru things.

iPad Icon Size

One of the key factors I was concerned about before getting started was that I knew that this app was displaying a lot of images and that the images that came as part of the default vocabulary files are from an era where HD displays were not even dreamt of yet. The icons are low res, pixelated and often don’t look much like their real world counterparts. I knew I needed to make things as familiar as possible for my son as he is very much a creature of habit and accepts things that are familiar much easier than something he may have not had contact with yet. When picking out our device I knew that loading up detailed images of real world objects might be a issue, not so much because of hardware limitations since I figured the iPad could pump out the horsepower needed, but maybe the software might have some bottlenecks either for being fairly new or bringing legacy issues forward. We picked the iPad Air since it was the fastest unit at the time hoping it’s faster processor would help keep things snappy when switching between pages. LWFL imports images from the iPad’s camera roll. during the import process, it presents your with a crop tool but I didn’t know if the software was simply cropping the image on the fly, or was it actually creating a nice small icon adjusting the resolution and dimensions or what. I started a test vocabulary file to play with, and began replacing images. I used large +900px images and things seems to be running pretty good. I then removed some of the images from the Camera Roll, and the images stayed in the software so I knew it was at least storing the images within the program, which was good so didn’t have to worry about my son deleting images and breaking things. But I had only replace a few test images. Would the speed keep up as I loaded more and more images? I didn’t want to get weeks into setting up Daniel’s core custom vocabulary file only to be hit with a performance issue and have to start all over.  I posted a question over on PRC’s Facebook page [because any company worth it’s salt will respond to someone questioning the quality of their product in an open forum in front of millions of potential customers to keep up their company’s image up 😉 ] and with  PRC’s speedy response, I found out that the internal icon size is 5/8″ x 3/4″ (0.625″ x 0.75″) or a  1:1.2 ratio. “Cool!” I thought, “They are creating their own images and resizing them down so I should be good to go.” So I started to create my son’s custom vocab file. I edited my images on my PC & upload them to my website. Then on the iPad I would refresh the page in Safari, save the image to the Camera Roll and then import the image in LWFL. Using the 1:1.2 ratio though I was getting outlines showing up on the edges of the image. It seems a square image usually works better. I got about 50 images in when things . . started . . . to . . . . slow . . . . . . .down. I though “Ahhh crapo. They are cropping, but not resizing.” I exported a standard 84 full vocab file and my custom vocab file to iTunes and compared their sizes. About 20 MB’s difference. All of my custom jpeg images only added up to about 4MB total. So I am left to deduce that either the image processing on the iPad is creating some larger files or there is some sort of overhead or meta data going on inside.

(I have posted a question on Facebook about this and will update this when I have a answer.)

So after hitting this snag, I have gone thru and tested multiple formats, sizes and resolutions.  I am getting best results using 450X450 px and 600 PPI which results in an image about 30-40kb per image. I am going to go forward now using these sizes, adjust my existing images and go on from here. I know the iPad Air has a screen resolution of 264 PPI, but I compared 264, 528 and 600 (600 just to try a nice round number) and the 600 looked the sharpest. I tried 792 & 800 but didn’t any difference in clarity, so I stuck with 600 PPI.

LAMP Words For Life Key Colors

Color Chart

 

 

 

 

 

Getting transparent icons into the iPad app seems like it is going to require building the vocab file/icons using the PASS software and purchasing a license to the iShare account service to sync with. The PASS software is pretty rough (old & clunky like the Vantage Lite units), I am not quite ready to setup a iShare account. Will probably end up needing to sync my son’s personal and school device up using iShare with the teachers, but not ready to do that just yet. These colors match the standard app colors but unfortunately it seems the colors used when editing icons within the app have a gradient so they don’t quite blend in naturally, but these colors will get you pretty darn close. I am going to just color my standard icons and forget about trying to do transparency as I can probably get these color added as fast as trying to convert the vocab PVF files in and out of the PASS software.

Hex Color – Color Name or Color Description
█ FFFFFF – White
█ FFBB92 – Very Light Orange
█ FF9966  –  Atomic Tangerine
█ CC5F00 – Strong Orange
█ FFDCB8 – Pale Orange
CF9F69 – Slightly Desaturated Orange
█ 9D7033 – Dark Moderate Orange
█ 6F4924 – Very Dark Orange
█ FFFFCC – Very Pale Yellow
█ FFFF98 – Very Light Yellow
█ FFFF66 – Unmellow Yellow
█ FFFF00 – Yellow, Electric yellow
█ CCFF99 – Very Light Green
█ 00FF66 – Pure Cyan – Lime Green
█ 009C00 – Dark Lime Green
█ 006600 –  Pakistan Green
█ CCFFFF – Very Pale Cyan
█ 8CFFFF – Very Light Cyan
█ 0CC0C0 – Strong Cyan
█ 088080 – Dark Cyan
█ CCE0FF – Very Pale Blue
█ 99CCFF – Very Light Blue
█ 5588FF – Light Blue
█ 0000FF – Blue
█ E0CCFF – Very Pale Violet
█ CC99FF – Very Light Violet
█ A767FF – Very Light Violet
█ 7F00FF – Pure Violet
█ FFC5EA – Very Pale Pink
█ FF8AD7 – Very Light Pink
█ FF0099 – Pure Pink
█ B00072 – Dark Pink
█ FFCCCC – Very Pale Red
█ FF7777 – Very Light Red
█ EE0000 – Pure Red
█ 993333 – Dark Moderate Red

 

Color Information Provided by ColorHexa

Go from IDE mode to AHCI mode for your SATA devices by running the Microsoft Fix It tool to enable AHCI driver support. Worked Flawlessly on Windows 7 SP1. After running the MS Fit It Tool, reboot, enter the BIOS, change your controller mode to AHCI, save the BIOS settings and reboot back into Windows. With any luck you should not see the BSOD :p

Microsoft Fit It Tool – Enable Sata AHCI mode

Newegg.com – My favorite online retailer for Computer  Hardware. When my local shop can’t get it they are who I go to. Fast and great  prices. Great customer service.

Tweakguides.com – A collection of system & application tweaking guides. Lots of good stuff here.

Tech ARP  (Formally Adrian’s Rojak Pot) – Great comp. tech site. Have to check out their CPU, Video Card & other comparison charts.

Free BIOS Optimization Guide – Brought to you by TechARP a great guide covering almost every BIOS setting I’ve seen around with good descriptions and dismisses some of the myths and legends with facts.

Paul Thurrott’s SuperSite for Windows – Probably the best overall Windows site out there.

Old Version –  Find old versions of your favorite shareware. Because newer is not always  better.

Silent PC Review – Learn how to make your PC or HTPC as quite as possible. Remember no CAPS (shouting) allowed.

Startech – Startech has hard to find custom tech tools and equipment. From cables, switches & adaptors to testing and creation tools.

TinyUrl – Make super long url’s into small simple urls.

Jinx – Clothing for gamers & geeks.

Think Geek – Stuff for gamers & geeks.

Windows Sysinternal – Great system apps created by Mark Russinovich and Bryce Cogswell recently bought by Microsoft

Twit Netcast Network – Great group of tech netcast staring Leo Laporte, Patrick Norton, Kevin Rose, John C. Dvorak and other tech bigleaguers.

MonoPrice.com – Cheap, High Quality Audio, Video, Tech cables & converters, and many hard to find specialty items.

Interfacelift – Fantastic desktop wallpapers.

http://www.videohelp.com – All around computer audio / video guides, apps and methods.

http://www.doom9.net – DVD backups & other encoding

Darik’s Boot and Nuke (“DBAN”) is a self-contained boot floppy that securely wipes the hard disks of most computers. DBAN will automatically and completely delete the contents of any hard disk that it can detect, which makes it an appropriate utility for bulk or emergency data destruction.

Visit the Darik’s Boot and Nuke Sourceforge project page for the latest version

CPU-Z is freeware that gathers information on some of the main devices of your system. CPU-Z does not need to be installed. Just unzip the files in a directory and run the .exe. In order to remove the program, just delete the files, and that’s it.
CPU
Name and number.
Core stepping and process.
Package.
Core voltage.
Internal and external clocks, clock multiplier.
Supported instruction sets.
Cache information.

Mainboard
Vendor, model and revision.
BIOS model and date.
Chipset (northbridge and southbridge) and sensor.
Graphic interface.



Memory

Frequency and timings.
Module(s) specification using SPD (Serial Presence Detect) : vendor, serial number, timings table.

System
Windows and DirectX version


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